Global fashion waste crisis: Africa calls for an end to 'waste colonialism'

As the world observes the International Day of Zero Waste 2025, urgent action is needed. Environmental groups Global Alliance for Incinerator Alternatives (GAIA) Africa and Green Africa Youth Organisation (GAYO) are leading this call. This year’s theme is "Towards Zero Waste in Fashion and Textiles." It highlights the severe impact of fast fashion on the environment, especially in the Global South.

The global fashion industry generates about 92 million tonnes of textile waste each year. A large part of this waste ends up in African markets as second-hand clothing donations. Ghana’s Kantamanto Market receives around 15 million used clothing items weekly, mostly from the Global North. Unfortunately, much of this clothing is unsellable due to poor quality. This leads to widespread dumping in landfills and illegal sites.

Jacob Johnson Attakpah, GAYO’s Project Manager for Zero Waste Cities Program, warns about the overwhelming textile waste crisis:
“Africa refuses to be at the receiving end of textile waste from the West. The fashion industry must adopt circular design and responsible sourcing.”

The consequences extend beyond environmental harm. In cities like Accra, discarded clothing clogs drainage systems and worsens flooding. Coastal areas are also polluted by heaps of abandoned garments washed ashore. The Agbogbloshie Market has become a dumping ground for unsellable clothing, increasing pollution levels.

Moreover, the influx of second-hand clothing harms Africa’s local textile industry. Cheap imports reduce demand for locally produced fabrics, pushing many artisans out of business.

Developed nations dominate the trade in second-hand textiles. In 2023, top exporters included:

- United States: $1.06 billion
- China: $681 million
- Germany: $338 million
- United Kingdom: $327 million

Many clothes from these countries create unmanageable waste problems in Africa. Nirere Sadrach, Founder of End Plastic Pollution (EPP) in Uganda, calls this "waste colonialism":
“Some countries use second-hand textiles to export their waste to poorer nations.”

GAIA Africa and its partners demand immediate policy changes to address fast fashion's impact:

1. **Ban on Unmanageable Textile Waste** – African governments should stop importing unusable second-hand clothing.

2. **Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR)** – Fashion brands must take responsibility for their generated waste.

3. **Investment in Local Textile Industries** – Policies should support sustainable growth within Africa’s textile sector.

4. **Consumer Awareness** – Encouraging sustainable fashion choices can help reduce fast fashion demand.

Desmond Alugnoa from GAIA Africa states:
“Africa cannot be a dumping ground for fast fashion's waste.” He emphasizes that urgent policies are needed to hold corporations accountable.

Some organizations like Or Foundation are changing how Accra deals with textile waste. They transform discarded materials into sustainable products like laptop stands and hangers.

As we mark International Day of Zero Waste, African nations and environmental groups stand against harmful fast fashion practices. With rising textile waste threatening ecosystems and communities, systemic change is urgently needed. The fight against "waste colonialism" is a global responsibility that affects us all.